Let’s embark on a journey to explore the soul of pálinka, the iconic Hungarian spirit celebrated for its artisanal craftsmanship and rich cultural heritage.
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Pálinka as we know it today is determined by the pálinka law from 2008. Protected as a geographical indication by the European Union, only fruit spirits that are mashed, distilled, matured, and bottled in Hungary, along with similar apricot spirits from four provinces of Austria, can bear the revered name pálinka. In neighboring countries, you’ll find similar spirits known as pálenka (Czech, Slovak), palincă (Romanian), and Boğma (Turkey).
It has to be made from 100% fruits that are grown in Hungary. It can’t contain any other additives including honey. The alcohol content has to be at least 37.5% by volume with a maximum of 86% by volume.
Here are the definitions of some specialty palinka.
Kisüsti: It was distilled in less than 1000 liters capacity still (as equipment) containing copper and it was distilled at least twice.
Érlelt pálinka (aged palinka): This one was aged for 3 months in less than 1000 liters capacity barrels or for 6 months in a barrel that is larger than 1000 liters.
Ópálinka (old palinka): It was aged for at least a year in a barrel that has less than 1000 liters capacity or for two years if the capacity exceeds 1000 liters.
Ágyas pálinka: It’s aged with fruit for at least three months. Usually has some discoloration.
Origins and Heritage
The technology of distilling dates back to 12th century Italy. The first written mention in Hungary is from the 14th century as medicine for gout. A century later distillates were drunk for fun. These however were mainly made out of grains. The first mention of a spirit made from fruit, plums to be more specific, is from the late 17th century. Even then distilled spirits were not too common or at least there isn’t any proof of it. This was mainly due to poor equipment as you need a good cooling system as well as a pretty reliable constant heat source.
In the mid 19th century plum, pomace and wheat was very common. By then distillates made from potatoes became more and more dominant due to its lower price. In the 1920s and 1930s homestilling got banned and most of the spirits were not made of fruit but only flavored.
After WW2 using high quality fruit for a mash was considered wasteful so any fruit spirit was made from less desirable fruit. Up until the 2000s that practice stayed in place. Using less desirable fruit is still a common practice in some households. I only use fruit that are overripe but not moldy, still edible, however the texture might not be as great for eating.
Crafting Pálinka
Fermentation: As we saw before, pálinka is made exclusively from locally grown fruits. The fruit needs to ferment. It’s an alcoholic fermentation done by yeast. (This can be dangerous since the fruit contains pectin, which is broken down by yeast, and the byproduct is methyl alcohol. In order to minimize methyl alcohol production I add pectinase to the mash, so instead of the yeast the pectinase breaks down the pectin. This way the methyl alcohol production is eliminated or at least minimized.) Fermentation is usually done at room temperature and can last anywhere from 10-20 days. Depending on the types of mash, it can be aged as well.
While it can be crafted from various fruits, the most common ones include plums, apricots, apples, pears and cherries.
Distillation: When the mash finished fermenting it is time to distill it. At this point we have a fruity mash with some alcohol present. The alcohol content of the mash depends mainly on the initial sugar content. We have a mix of water, alcohol and a lot of flavor compounds. The goal is to separate the water from the alcohol. This is what distilling is all about. Water, ethyl and methyl alcohol have different boiling points, and during distillation we use this to our advantage. As the mash is heated, the different compounds evaporate at different temperatures.
Stilling usually consists of two parts. One where we heat the mash, and the second where we trap the steam. The still can be vertical like in rum or it can have a separate vessel which cools the steam. First off are the highly volatile compounds that include methyl alcohol if there is any in the mash. The first few drops to a cup is what’s called the head. This can have some off flavors and methyl alcohol, however in a well done mash the head is harmless and full of flavourful molecules.
Then as the temperature of the mash rises, things including ethyl alcohol reach their boiling points. Fun fact: you can tell when the palinka is done simply by measuring the temperature of the steam at the right part of the still. As the mash heats, more water gets in the mix and the steam temperature rises. Once it’s over 100 Celsius, there is nothing left in it but water.
Towards the end there is more and more water vapor in the steam.That’s when the tail starts which is not too pleasant. Since it still has some alcohol, I like to keep it to water down the mash if it’s too thick, and put some of it at the bottom to prevent scorching but I don’t mix this with the body as it tastes like a lightly alcoholic cooked fruit jam, but by restilling it, I can get some of the absolutely fine alcohol out of it.
Once the distilling is finished, it’s measuring time. I like to measure the first quarter. The highest I have ever got was 78 alc by vol. But I usually average around 68-70%. Then I like to let it sit for a few weeks before I dilute it to the desired alcohol content, which for me is between 41-42%. Once that’s done, it ages for at least 3 months. It’s rare that I offer a 3 months old palinka on my tours; they are anywhere from 9 to 12 months old or even older.
Why is mine different?
I use fruit that we grew, the only chemicals we use in the whole garden are approved for organic farming, so technically the fruit is organic. I use wine yeast for now but I might switch to a yeast that can produce a higher proof mash (sherry yeast).
My mashes usually sit for 3-6 months, sometimes even more. Since they are around 13-16% alc by vol and they are in a cellar they can safely be there much longer. High proof mashes however require at least 6, ideally 12 months of aging. I also add sugar to the mash. The conversion from sugar to alcohol is 2:1, meaning every 2 units of sugar will end up being 1 unit alcohol. This means that a 100 unit mash (fruit and water) must have 26-32% sugar.
The higher alcohol content helps to draw out, and break down more flavor. I still use a small 2 part still. Vertical stills are known to produce very clean and smooth alcohols but the cost is lack of flavor. My still however does not lose any flavor as it’s a different design. Every single batch that comes out of my still is tasted by me. If the first sip ain’t right I’m stopping the whole process, figuring out what’s wrong. If the mash is faulty it goes into the compost bin.
The most important thing for me is flavor, then comes the look. My palinka is clean as it looks like water. I don’t double distill, as with that I’d lose some flavor. It would smooth it out even more, but no one ever felt the need to make my palinka smoother.
I don’t want to go under 40%. My goal is to create a spirit that is enjoyable and not kicking you under the table after the first shot. Not a lot of people are used to drinking 40% alcohol in the morning so I keep it on the lower end.
Lastly it is aged before dilution and after dilution. Dilution is done with distilled water, pure H2O. It’s just there to cut the alcohol, but it does not impart any flavor.
Pálinka isn’t merely a drink; it’s a cultural emblem. Whether sipped in a rustic Hungarian tavern, shared during festive gatherings, or enjoyed at my tours it embodies the warmth and conviviality of Hungarian hospitality. Each glass tells a story — a tale of orchards, sun-kissed fruits, and generations preserving tradition. And it’s a whole lot of fun to make it.